Once the Kingplank has been laid and glued, the deck fill is dry laid leaving enough material to cover the Kingplank as seen here..........

This extra will be enough to fit or snape the ends of the main deck strips into the Kingplank working back from the bowsprit.

The main decking planks will run in a natural curve into the centre line or Kingplank of the boat and will be roughly cut to length.  Use the square to make sure the points are level on both sides of the Kingplank so that the finished effect is 100% even. 

Cut the leading edge of the plank where it intersects the Kingplank at 90° and then mark 25mm along the edge or half way. 

Then mark where the next edge of the plank meets the Kingplank drawing a straight line down to this point. 

Cut between both points with the Teak-it-Easy angle cutters.

You will also need to cut away the same shape in the Kingplank so that there is a snug fit. 

Carefully chisel out any bedding adhesive under the gap that still remains. 

Keep the gap quite tight, 1-2mm is ideal as too large a gap will cause a problem later when you come to do the caulking.

Now you are ready to cut the snaped caulking channel.  As before, start by measuring a 5mm gap from the good edge and mark on to the Teak-it-Easy with a pen or similar. 

Next, cut along the line with a sharp craft knife using the curved blade. 

You can remove the channel by simply chiselling or pulling it out.

It is important that the groove goes all the way down to the original deck to allow enough depth for the caulking.

You can now mask off the snaping line and any fittings that border the caulking channel ready for caulking. 

As before, smooth off the excess caulking rather when wet and leave to dry for 24 hours before finally peeling off. 

Lastly, sand down the caulking to achieve the same finish as the surrounding deck area.